Nájeras to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

April 26, 2016 Tuesday

A Walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada    Walking Day #9

Today's walk was a little shorter than I had thought before I read over the guidebook. Yesterday was about 30 kilometers (20 miles), and today, the distance from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a mere 20 kilometers (13 miles). And there is to be only one major hill, and it does not look too terribly bad. I was trying to figure out a way to show the elevation maps here, but I have not had a lot of time to research that yet.

[For this blog, because I have to carry everything, I am using a Samsung Android tablet instead of a laptop computer because it is lighter. Much about the tablet is a learning process for me. When I figure out how to select, edit, copy, and paste the relevant parts of the elevation maps, I'll be posting them.]

The route from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is again through rich green sweeping vineyards and farmland. Below is part of the walk a little out of Nájera as we are completely into the farmland after leaving the small town.

These are mostly farm roads, and sometimes a tractor or other farm vehicle comes along, and we must get out of the way. The farmers in the vehicles seem to be friendly, waving and saying Buen Camino most of the time.

Today I am again walking with Maria from Dana Point with her friends, Guilliame from Paris and Carla (another yoga instructor) from Brazil. Carla and I talked a bit about yoga, and she told me that she has two daughters, 19 and 21, attending college in the U.S. near or in Chicago. Her "empty nest" feelings drew her to the Camino to contemplate the next phase of her life and her yoga after a few injuries.

Here we are going down a bit into a small valley. The so-called "flat" days like today are not really flat; everything is rolling, up hill and downhill. Regardless, the vistas are stunning and the scenery beautiful. I have used those words many times, and probably will many more - it is really hard to find the right words; many things in this set of experiences are almost beyond words.

The Camino is difficult, difficult in a way that is hard to describe. We all can walk, and we can all see ourselves walking for a distance. Walking up and down hill for 20 miles is more difficult. That first day from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles was far, far more difficult than I had imagined, even knowing that it might be the hardest day on the Camino. My legs hurt, my knees hurt, my feet hurt, and I was exhausted. When I got to Roncesvalles, I do not think I could have climbed the stairs to my second floor room, I was so thankful there was a lift (as they say here...an elevator).

At the same time, that first day was one of the most exhilarating days of my life. The views and the scenery were magnificent. Green lush farmland, wild horses, eagles, hawks, and many vultures (the vultures were especially beautiful as they soared effortlessly above us for a time). We were up in the clouds, and there was snow around; it was beautiful. I felt uplifted as I was walking with new friends sharing the beauty around us.

And walking day after day after day can be a grind. But the beauty of the scenery, and the friends sharing the experience lift your spirits.  It is just great.

Here, near the top of this rise, is a bit of forest. In the foreground is a vineyard and that appears to be a type of wheat beyond.

Along the road here is this smaller waterfall. Because of recent rain and plenty of water, the sound is nice.

And the road just keeps going, on and on, through the valley, and up over the next rise.

Here the road is going up a hill surrounded and sheltered by high brush on one side and wildflowers on the other.

In the small town of Cirueña there is this bit of what could be called pilgrim art - a sculpture of a pilgrim walking towards a large shell (the symbol of the Camino). From this little town, there is only about 5 or 6 kilometers to go to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

And coming over this rise, we can see Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the background, far, far ahead.

In Santo Domingo de la Calzada, this is the entrance to the main church. It is closed now. Everything in town is closed for the daily siesta time.

I found my hotel, and went about my almost daily routine after the walk:

1. check in, get a hot shower
2. find a place to get laundry done (or hand it over to the hotel if they do it)
3. find a place to get a snack, maybe a cold drink (maybe a Coca-Cola), and sit and rest for a little while and write in my journal
4. have dinner
5. repack everything, get things out for tomorrow
6. check e-mail, etc.
7. sleep

The same general routine every day, and it is different every day. 

Next: Another "short" day, only 14 or 15 miles to Belorado